What’s up everybody? It’s Eddie Z here from EZ Trading Computers, and you’re watching Trading Computer Secrets.
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In this video, I want to show you a very neat app to find out exactly what brand and model of components are inside your current computer.
All right, so this is a really cool app I recently discovered that shows you every single component inside your computer, every brand, every model number of every single component.
So what you want to do is go to a website called ccleaner.com. Once you get to ccleaner.com just go over here to the For Home button and drop on down to Speccy. This one’s called Speccy cause we’re going to look up the specs of your computer… kind of a fun name.
Then go ahead and click the Download Free Version. That’ll bring you down here. Stick with free. You don’t need to pay for this. And go ahead and download the free version.
Again, it’s bringing you to a another page. Click Download Free. And just be patient for a second. I’m using Chrome so I get this little pop up over here. If you were using Firefox, you’d get your little download arrow up here.
So I’m going to go ahead and click on this link to set up Speccy. Give it a second to load. I’ve noticed that it takes a minute or so or a few seconds for the pop up to come up to go ahead and install it.
So I’m just waiting for that pop up now. There it is. Click Install, and it will get everything downloaded and installed for you… Speccy V1.32… Run Speccy. Now I’m going to uncheck View Release Notes. I don’t need to view the release notes.
So I click Run Speccy, and I have this little program on my computer now called Speccy. Let me go ahead and maximize this.
Let’s take a look at what it tells us. So we are on the summary page. These are all the different pages of information that you have. So we’re here on the summary page and you can see I’m running Windows 10 Home 64 bit.
This computer… this is one of my old machines. I just use this to make videos. This has an Intel core i7-4790K running at 4 GHz, it says. My RAM, I have 16 GB of RAM DDR3. We’re on DDR4… it’s the most advanced now, so you can see this is an older machine.
My motherboard is an ASUS Sabertooth Z97 Mark 1. My graphics cards and my graphics… I’m using model 2752… those are my monitors. This machine has two monitors that are known as model 2752. These are like a very generic monitor I had laying around the office.
Most of the monitors we recommend are either Acer or Asus. Many cases you’ll see… it’ll say Asus model XYZ123, or Acer model VH247GP, something like that under graphics.
And it should also tell you what video card you have. This has an Nvidia G-Force GTX 750… this particular machine.
For storage devices, I have a 232 GB Crucial solid state hard drive, and I have a 2 TB Western Digital My Passport. I have two CD-ROM devices on here. And I’m also using a Logitech PRO-X Gaming Headset plugged into the audio.
So you can see it tells you what brand of component you have, what model. For example, like the drive here… what model of drive I have.
So that’s a really cool summary right out of the gate. What we want to make note of, right here, is that I have the Intel i7-4790. You might want to write down your processor as well. I’m going to show you something pretty neat in a few minutes.
Now here we get more into the detail. This was a summary page. I’m clicking on Operating System. What this is telling me is I’m running Windows 10… it’s desktop… what date it was installed on this machine… the serial number of Windows. That’s sometimes a good thing to have.
So if you ever have an issue with Windows and you’re already a customer of EZ Trading Computers and you’re having trouble with Windows, it’s nice to have the serial number. It should be located on a sticker on the top or the rear of your machine. But… this might be an important thing to write down… is your serial number of Windows, and just put it in a safe place.
It tells me all of the settings inside of Windows. My security center… my update is set to auto update, but to notify before downloading and installing. Windows Defender is enabled… Antivirus… All kinds of neat stuff you can go through at your own leisure.
Next one here is CPU. Now this one is pretty interesting because it tells me this is a 4-core processor with 8 threads.
What 8 threads means is that Intel has a special program that runs on the processor. It’s called hyper-threading. And what that does is make this four core processor look like an eight core processor.
And as a trader that usually really helps your trading applications run more efficiently. Intel has that built in. AMD has it now, too.
What I want to bring your attention to down here… is this actually showing my clock speed of each core in real time. So this machine, even though this processor, it says it’s 4.0 GHz, I have this processor boosted up to 4.4 GHz… 4.399.
Here we have the RAM. It tells me I have a total of four memory slots, and I’m only using two of them. So I could actually upgrade the memory with two more RAM modules.
It tells me the type of RAM. This tells me the total amount of RAM I have on the machine. 16,384 bytes is the same as 16 GB… tells me the RAM frequency. So if I was going to upgrade it, I got to make sure to match this RAM frequency.
It tells me how much memory I’m using right now. I’m using almost 40% of the memory, and I have available about 9.6 GB.
The next one here on the left is the motherboard. And as I said earlier, it’s an ASUS Sabertooth Z97. It tells me what is the version of the bios that I’m running… it tells me the voltage.
A lot of this stuff you don’t really need to know, but if you wanted to get into the real nitty gritty of the machine, you could look at every single spec.
I click on Graphics. It shows me the two monitors that I have running. It shows me what resolution I have them set to. And down here it tells me about my graphics card. Now this machine only has one graphics card, but if I had multiple graphics cards in here, it would list both of them.
It also tells me I’m running at about 35 degrees. If, by the way, if you’re on CPU, it also tells you your core temperature.
If you ever saw these temperatures above 65 degrees Celsius, like you’re running 75, 80, 85, 90 degrees Celsius, that’s a kind of a high level. That’s a dangerous level to run your CPU, and you’re going to start overheating, and you don’t want to burn out the CPU. Call your computer’s tech support, and find out why that’s happening.
Next one is Optical Drives… tells me what type of optical drives I have. So this machine has a DVD writer and it also has a Blu-ray Disc reader.
Audio…I have the Logitech PRO-X Gaming Headset here. There’s also audio built into my video card. And then the motherboard, the Realtek High Definition audio is built into the motherboard.
Playback Devices… I have speakers, which is this headset that I’m wearing. And then there’s also a speaker built into my monitors, little tiny speakers.
Recording Devices, obviously my headset.
And then if you click on Peripherals, it tells you about what kind of mice you have hooked up… what kind of printer you have hooked up. Here’s my headset again. Here’s are all the things that are plugged into the machine… external devices essentially.
And then on the Network it tells me about my current network. This particular machine I have plugged into both Xfinity and into AT&T Gigablast. So I actually have two different Internet connections on this machine.
All right, so going back to the summary, I know I have the Intel core i7-4790K. And even though it says 4 GHz, I’m running 4.3 or 4.4. I’m just going to copy this. Then I want you to go to eztradingcomputers.net… that’s my website.
So here’s our website. Let me close this here. Go ahead and click on FAQ > Test Your Computer’s Speed, if you haven’t seen this before. Now assuming you’re running a Windows machine, go ahead… You can watch this video, but I tell you in this video how to test your computer speed. You can skip this.
Go ahead and click Get Started right here. Then go ahead and put in the CPU information of your computer.
Now I tried doing it by cut and paste. That didn’t work. What should happen is when you start typing the type of processor you have… notice the dropdown underneath… It’s just to help you find your processor. So I guess go ahead and type it in manually… like that.
So I have the Intel core i7-4790K. I click on that. It automatically fills it out. I click Next Step and that takes you to a page that looks like this.
Now the benchmark score of my processor, the i7-4790K, is 11,164, and that is why I use this machine to make videos because the minimum benchmark score you want to see is 12,000. This is an older machine, perhaps five or six years old, and it’s a little tiny bit outdated.
I could probably get by with this machine, but now we have machines, I mean we even have laptops that run over 14,000, and desktops running with a benchmark score over 30,000.
The minimum benchmark score you want to see is 12,000, so that’s very important.
So now you know exactly how fast your machine is for trading. And you could, again, you could look at my videos and stuff, but I’m walking you through this.
Now there’s one more aspect about checking your computer’s speed for trading and that’s this button right here: Take the Next Speed Test. And what this is, is a test of your Internet speed.
So, I’m just going to scroll under the video. The video explains how to use this right here, the Speed Test. So go, let’s go ahead and test our speed.
Right now I’m connected to my Xfinity connection even though I can also connect to my AT&T Gigablast. Let’s see how my Xfinity Comcast is doing today. So I go ahead and click Go.
This little tool boots up and starts running. I’m doing pretty well. This is a very nice speed. It’s not as fast as my fiber from AT&T, but it is pretty fast. I’m going to let the test finish here.
Now it’s going to… that just tested the download. Now I’m testing the upload. So this number here is called the ping. Ping is your computer shooting a signal to the closest node at your provider.
So I’m pinging or sending a quick signal, and looking for a response from my closest access point of my Internet provider. In this case, it’s Comcast Xfinity, and it took nine milliseconds. That is very good.
Any ping under 50 milliseconds is good. Once you start getting over 50 or over a hundred milliseconds, you’re going to have slippage. So this is something that you want to bring down to the lowest level possible.
My download speed is 360 Mbps (megabits per second). My upload speed is 24.2 Mbps. These are good numbers. A minimum download you want to see is 25 Mbps. The minimum upload speed you want to see is 5 Mbps.
My recommendation is don’t be cheap. Upgrade to the highest speed possible in your area that’s within reason.
If you’re paying a 100 bucks a month to get the fastest Internet available, that’s fine. You should be able, you should be willing as a trader to pay a hundred bucks. If it’s $700 a month, because you have to go through some private network, that’s unreasonable.
So here is this last piece called Jitter. This jitter score is a measure of how clean your signal is, how clean your download is, how clean your upload, how clean the signal is.
Are you having what’s called packet loss, where the signal going back and forth from your computer to the first computer on the Internet, that there’s a little bit of signal loss, or a little bit of data loss? That’s what jitter means. You want this as low as possible.
So an acceptable tolerance for jitter is anything under 30 milliseconds. Anything over 30 or 50 means you have packet loss, and it means your signal is not clean.
So your Internet speed is going to vary greatly and sometimes your signal may maybe super fast and clean, and other times your signal’s not going to come in so well.
Those are the two big tests for measuring your computer speed. You want to have a fast CPU (your processor), and you want to have the fastest Internet that you can afford within reason.
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My name’s Eddie Z. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you in the next video.